I Love the 80s: Bartenders Are Updating The Most Obnoxious Era in Cocktails

Photo: Getty Images

This is the month that many movie fans have been waiting for since 1985. October 21st, 2015 was the date Marty McFly traveled to in Back To The Future Part II. This is important to me because this is one of my favorite movies (Back To The Future is my favorite) and watching it (over and over again) was a major part of my childhood. Even though I was only eight years old when this movie came out, it has remained one of my favorites ever since. Sadly, since I was born in 1981, I didn’t really get a chance to appreciate much of the 1980s until they were over.

I remember enjoying my fair share of 80s cartoons, sitcoms and movies. But, I probably didn’t really fall in love with movies like Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, Big, Back to the Future and The Breakfast Club until the early nineties. In the 80s, I was too busy watching GI Joe, Voltron, He-Man, Alf and The Wonder Years. Also, since I was just a kid, I didn’t really get a chance to appreciate the most ridiculous era in cocktailing. Luckily, because of innovative bartenders, I now can.

On top of being known for classic teen movies, the 1980s was a time when films like Wall Street, Risky Business and, most notably, Cocktail showed a different side of the decade. It was a world of flashy moves and excess. The same could be said for the bartending industry at the time. “I think bars in general cared more about profit and less about quality, and the cocktails at the time reflected that,” says Dan Rook, Head Bartender at South Water Kitchen in Chicago. “Roses lime juice, for example, is cheaper than squeezing fresh juice every day and it’s a lot less labor intensive.”

Cheesy drinks like “Alabama Slammer”, “Cape Codder” and “Sex on the Beach” were eagerly mixed up by overworked bartenders. But, how did these cocktails become so popular so quickly? “Like any trend it snowballed rather quickly – thanks in large part to vodka and the flavored vodka craze,” says Rook. Vodka, on its own is essentially a flavorless ethanol alcohol and most people in the 80s just wanted to get a buzz without having to even taste their booze. “The issue was two fold – people didn’t want to taste their liquor because most of the liquor being poured at that time was awful; and bartenders at the time also didn’t know any better.”

When Did it End And What Turned Bartending Around?

Getty Images

The quality craft cocktails you see being made around the country today would not be possible if it weren’t for people Like Dale Degroff, David Wondrich, Jeff “Beachbum” Berry and others. “These Pioneers honed in on the classic style of pre-prohibition craft bar tending that Jerry Thomas carried the flag for back in the day.”

Another turning point happened when the mindset of consumers began to change. “Informed consumption started to evolve from a customer standpoint, and chefs and bartenders had to evolve with it.” The new generation of drinkers grew up with more options in all facets of life. “It makes sense that they would seek out more diverse, in depth cocktails as well.”

Obviously it’s not looked back on fondly by bartenders, but it’s important to keep in mind that people really didn’t know any better back then. It was the same time period when Teen Wolf didn’t seem farfetched. “Bartenders were making money and people were still having fun, so there’s no sense in judging. I’m just happy to be behind the stick today as opposed to back then.” Bartenders have much more freedom now. There are many more opportunities to be creative, artistic and passionate about what they do and this translates directly to the high quality of the customer experience. “I thank my lucky stars that I am able to do that, instead of having to depend on flair, and juggling bottles and pouring sugar laden artificially flavored shots in order to make a living.”

Recreating Obnoxious 80s/90s Drinks With Fresh Ingredients

Getty Images

Many people still don’t really know what their looking for when they sit at a bar, so they’ll order an old standby that they’re familiar with. “Sex on the Beach” for example. “It’s got a sexy name, its sweet, you can’t taste the booze – prime order for an uninformed consumer.” But, instead of making that drink for a guest, bartenders like Rook are now able to direct them to something similar, but different, that isn’t going to give them a throbbing headache the next day and diabetes in the long run. “At SWK we don’t carry any schnapps or artificially flavored spirits so we are actually unable to make that drink anyway. We simply can not do it. But we can turn the customer on to something new and unexpected.”

These drinks can be updated for contemporary drinkers simply by using house made ingredients and quality spirits. “Take ‘No Need to Argue’ for example- Eric (McMillian-Yates) took a 90s staple – The Cosmo – and made it his own by creating a cranberry sage honey syrup in house,” says Rook. “The drink also calls for fresh lemon juice (squeezed that day) instead of a shitty artificial sour mix. It’s pink, it’s sexy, it’s delicious and it’s craft through and though.”

Rook says that it’s okay to not know what you want or to not understand some ingredients you see on a cocktail menu. “That’s what we’re here for – to help you.” Any craft bartender worth his or her salt should be able to direct you to a cocktail based on your usual flavor preferences. “If they really know what their doing they’ll help you evolve your palate on the next round by steering you toward something a little weirder. Don’t be afraid to experiment – it’s fun for us and should be fun for you as well.”