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In recent years, bourbon has regained its rightful place on the American liquor shelf.
“The momentum had been gradually building since Maker’s Mark garnered its early attention in the early 1980s and Elmer T. Lee commercialized the single barrel bourbons with Blanton’s and Booker Noe pioneered the small batch bourbons,” says Fred Minnick, author of Bourbon Curious: A simple tasting guide for the savvy drinker.
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The 90s saw the birth of famous brands like Woodford Reserve and Jefferson’s, the re-emergence of Michter’s, the rise of Bulleit Bourbon and the creation of numerous limited edition bourbons. “When the 2000s hit, the niche bourbon industry had some decent momentum and the world suddenly found a brand called Pappy Van Winkle that won over palates with just a mere sip and Four Roses reentered the U.S. market.” He adds, “Couple this gradual growth and never-ending passion from the distillers with the fact that new drinking age consumers started rejecting vodka and wanted something that tastes worth a damn, and you had the perfect storm for bourbon.” This growth was created completely organically. “Consumers created this”. Fortunately, the distillers are creating some amazing bourbon to win them over as well.
The reason for bourbon’s recent popularity is because people demand to actually taste something. This is across the board in food and drink. “We have two cable channels dedicated to food and several traditional TV stations hosting cooking competition shows,” says Minnick. “Look at all the libation and food magazines, blogs and food personalities: People are interested in learning more about the foods and drinks they love.”
But, at the most basic level, consumers want flavor, whether it’s in a fast food burrito or in a cocktail. “Bourbon is packed full of incredible caramel, vanilla and spice notes that warm the palate and appeal to a broad market. The other whiskeys are also appealing to audiences, but can be more cost prohibitive than bourbon.”
Bourbon Facts
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Bourbon must be predominantly corn and matured in new charred oak. “The regulation says it must come from a fermented corn mash of at least 51%, made in the U.S., come off the still at not more than 160 proof and enter a new charred oak container at not more than 125 proof.” While these regulations might make a normal person fall asleep, the key bourbon component is the new charred oak barrel every time. “The barrel gives bourbon the majority of its flavor and all of its color.”
Bourbon is uniquely American represents a culture that transcends the spirit itself and embodies a whole community of people. “People don’t just drink bourbon alone. They taste it in social clubs, such as the Cincinnati Bourbon Society, and they attend the festivals and events such as the Kentucky Bourbon Festival, the Bourbon Classic, WhiskyFest or WhiskyLive. They cherish the master distillers and try to collect as many bottles as they can. It’s a beautiful subculture that starts with a dram.”
One of Minnick’s favorite facts he uncovered while writing Bourbon Curious was the distillery community’s role in corn. “Back in the 1930s, hybrid corn was created. It was a heartier corn that was more drought resistant, but distillers preferred the farmer’s non-hybrid corn.” By the 1960s, everything was hybrid corn because it yielded much more. “Fast forward to today, with the GMO debates, distillers were the some of the most vocal advocates for non-GMO corn. In fact, you have distilleries basically keeping non-GMO farmers in business. I think the GMO debate is something far greater than bourbon, but I found it very interesting that they’ve played a significant role in the corn plantings over the years. You could make the argument that bourbon distillers were the largest food production voice against GMOs.”
Maker’s Mark is celebrating bourbon heritage month by continuing to craft their classic, handmade bourbon that is as rooted in family history as it in America history. The Samuels family has been distilling bourbon in Loretto, Kentucky for over sixty years. “In keeping true to our heritage, we’re in the final stages of having a third still up and running to make more of the red-dipped Maker’s Mark fans have come to know and love,” says Maker’s Mark COO Rob Samuels. “Rather than modernize, this third still is going to be a mirror image of the distillery’s older stills to replicate the same quality and consistency that Maker’s Mark is known for.”
Samuels believes the rise in bourbon drinkers is all about taste. “More and more, you’re seeing a shift from vodka drinkers and people who didn’t even think they liked whisky, now drinking bourbon.” Much of this has to do with the changing palates of spirits drinkers. “Bourbon, by law, has to be made with 51% corn and aged in charred oak barrels. That alone results in tons of flavor.”
Each brand has its own recipe and aging process that adds to its own nuanced characteristics and this excites consumers today. “There are so many great bourbon options out there, from sweet and balanced wheated bourbons like Maker’s Mark, to those that are a bit spicier due to a heavier rye recipe.”
The craft cocktail resurgence over the last decade has also contributed greatly to the rise in bourbon consumption. “Bartenders are making amazing cocktails and using spirits, like bourbon, that don’t get lost or overpowered by the other ingredients in the drink,” says Samuels. “Coupled with the increased popularity of classic cocktails like Old Fashions and Manhattans made with bourbon, you have the ideal recipe for a spike in bourbon drinkers.”
The Kentucky Bourbon Trail
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The Kentucky Bourbon Trail set a new milestone with over 627,032 visits in 2014, and nearly 85% of those visitors were from outside of Kentucky. “Bourbon is certainly booming,” says Samuels. “These days, you can most definitely find a bourbon to suit just about any palate, and with September being Bourbon Heritage Month, I suggest you try a variety, responsibly of course. Maker’s Mark with one ice cube remains my tried and true favorite.”
