Nine Questions: Melissa Cookston, Winningest Woman in Barbecue

This week we asked Melissa to give us some of her favorite barbecue recipes from her new book, “Smokin’ in the Boy’s Room.” Then, we sat down with Melissa to ask her some questions about competing, her can’t-live-without spices and her best tips for weekend grill warriors.

Crave Online: You have a successful restaurant… what made you decide to compete—and deal with all the time away and stress and everything else that goes with it? 

Melissa Cookston: Actually the question is in reverse. We were on the road competing for years and then decided to open a restaurant.  We have really cut down on our competitions, but Memphis in May is still the “be all, end all” for us, and we will probably always compete there.  Regarding the stress, in the restaurant business you have to learn to roll with it!  I’m good at it, I love it and I feel like I have the best job in the world!  

What is hardest part of competing? And when you first started, were the guys you went up against supportive? Pissed? Or did they play off that they weren’t worried about a woman competing?

The hardest part of competing is beating some really good cooks!  There aren’t any women’s tees in BBQ, so there aren’t any overt comments.  I’m sure some men get a little pissed when a girl wins, but they’ll get over it.  I’m just concerned with my products being the best I can make them and learning something every time I cook.  

You’re known for whole hog… but what’s your favorite thing to cook in competition?

Whole Hog is absolutely my favorite. Over the years I’ve probably won more contests with ribs than hog, but I’ve won my World Championships with Whole Hog, so that’s how people know me (that, and the fact that a girl likes cooking 200+ lb. hogs).  There is something absolutely sublime about cooking a hog for 20 or more hours and making all the different parts come out perfectly.  It’s very challenging, and bacon from a Whole Hog is about the best thing you will ever put in your mouth, so that helps as well.  

What’s your favorite thing to cook for yourself?

No judges, no one else to please… just for you.  Brisket.  I love to take a whole brisket, season it simply and let the smoke add nuance and depth to it.  It is truly wonderful.  

Is there more pressure cooking for competition or for family and friends?

Contests!  Really, BBQ is so forgiving that you have to work hard to make it so bad that your family/friends won’t still enjoy it.  However, in a contest where the winner can be decided by fractions of a point, perfection is a requirement.  We lost a World Championship by 1 point out of a total of 570 possible one year.  That’s a big, big deal decided by a razor thin margin.  

What’s your go-to spice or sauce or rub? The one you can’t live without?

I’ve always believed in well-rounded flavorings, so I don’t have any one single spice.  Salt, pepper and garlic can go a long way, so those three would have to be the minimum with which I would fire up my smoker. With that being said, I love my rub, you can use it on everything!    

What’s the most unusual thing you cook on the grill? Something no one would imagine is possible?

I’m a Mississippi girl, so I never get too crazy with unusual items.  Generally speaking, anything you can cook inside you can cook outside, and you will get some added flavor nuances from the smoker or grill.  A little smoke or char adds flavor to almost anything!   

What’s your best tip for weekend BBQ warriors?

BBQ is about friends, family and enjoying the day.  Don’t get so caught up with equipment (other than to keep it clean) or recipes.  Cook what you love, don’t be afraid to try something new, and use recipes as a guide not a requirement.  Most of my best cooking has evolved from making slight changes to previous recipes.  Also, most people just starting out use too much smoke.  Smoke should be an added ingredient, not the primary flavor.   

And finally: Is Johnny Trigg as ornery in real life as he is on TV?

Johnny is a good friend and has never been anything but gracious to me.  He and Trish are like family.  He is a true gentleman of BBQ.

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